In case you hadn’t heard, the newest versions of the Quicken Personal Finance Softwares are now available.  As an affiliate of Quicken, I get the ability to offer you a discount on several of their titles.

  • Quicken 2009 Deluxe gets a 25% discount.  That takes it down to $44.99 instead of $59.99
  • Quicken 2009 Premier gets a 20% discount, for $71.99 instead of $89.99
  • Quicken 2009 Home & Business gets a 20% discount, bringing it down to $79.99 instead of $99.99
  • Quicken 2009 Rental Property Manager gets a 20% discount, $119.99 instead of $149.99
  • Quicken 2009 Home Inventory Manager also gets a 20% discount, $23.99 instead of $29.99
  • Quicken Willmaker  Plus is marked down to $39.99 from it’s normal $79.99
  • and they are apparently taking sign ups for Quicken Financial Life for Mac


Some Pretty good deals.  You can visit the Quicken 2009 store and take advantage of those discounts.  I’m not sure how long they’ll last, but by the time they are over, you ought to be able to pick the titles up on eBay for about the same as with the discount.  Of course, I’ll appreciate any affiliate commissions that I get a lot more than eBay will. ;)

Popularity: 38% [?]

Emigrant Bank announced their newest high yield savings account today.  Called the Dollar Savings Direct account, it will pay out what they claim to be an industry high 3.75% on all balances over $1000. I believe that there is at least one account that pays higher than 3.75% and the WaMu account is paying out 3.75%.  Still, a pretty good rate that is hard to beat.

If the name Emigrant Bank starts ringing bells for you, it’s because they run the Emigrant Direct savings accounts.  The Emigrant Direct savings accounts are a no minimum account that currently are paying 3.00% on all balances.  Neither account charges any fees and link directly to your current checking account.

It’s beginning to look like the Online Savings market is starting to heat up again.  With the current financial turmoil, people are starting to look for the highest yield they can find.  And quickly overcoming any qualms they have on using a online account to do so.  It’s a good thing for savers.

Popularity: 7% [?]

The $752 million dollar Columbian Bank and Trust of Topeka was shut down on Friday.  It became the ninth such bank closure this year.  Compared to only 3 closures in 2007, that seems like an awful lot of closures.  But, should we be worried?

Not really.  With the implementation of the FDIC and NCUA, the Government has taken away a lot of the sting of a bank or credit union closure.  There’s still plenty of inconvienences, but the insurance has you covered for most losses.  Your account is insured for up to $100,000, and there are some circumstances where it could be more.  But keep $100,000 as the baseline to worry about.  As long as you have less than that amount, you have nothing to fear.  Your money is insured and relatively safe.  The only inconvience will be delays in getting to your money if your institution should fail.

Another thing to keep in mind is that having this many closures, while not normal, isn’t unheard of.  In 2002, the FDIC closed 10+ banks.  Those were most likely a result of a little too much enthusiasm lending to dot com startups instead of real estate loans, but the effect was the same.  And if you’re thinking that Credit Unions are safer than Banks, you’d probably be only slightly right.  There have been 8 credit union closures this year so far.

So, should we be worried about bank failures?  Maybe a little, but not enough to lose sleep over.  And banks and credit unions are still much safer than bundles of cash in your mattress or under the old oak in the back yard.

Popularity: 9% [?]

One of the most important parts of paying off your debt and becoming financially independent is creating a budget.  At the very least it gives you an outline of where your money goes and where it should go.  At it’s most extreme, it serves to create strict limits for your spending.  How lax or strictly you adhere to the budget is up to you and how die-hard you are about your budgeting.

One thing remains constant however.   When the end of the month comes, the ending balance should be 0.  Money in - money out = 0.  If you have a deficit, you overspent and need to compensate for that by either reducing budgeted amounts in another category or by reducing the available money for the next month.  If you have a surplus, (good for you!) then you need to budget that money until your end result is 0.  Most of us looking to become debt free will budget any surplus towards excess debt payment.

Here’s how we have things set up at the Beating Broke household.

Income.  We keep a very simple income spreadsheet.  It lists the sources in Column A.  The amount in Column B and any notes for the income in Column C.  All of that gets totaled at the bottom.  That’s all we do with our income.  It’s the expenses that we really need to focus on anyways.

Expenses.  The expenses spreadsheet is a little more complex.  I have a field for the income that I carry over from the income sheet.  I also have a field for a total of all budgeted amounts.  I then have a few calculated fields.  The first is a field that gives me the budgetary deficit or surplus.  I get that by subtracting the total budgeted amount from the income.  A second calculated field gives me the true deficit or surplus.  This is calcultated by subtracting the actual amounts spent from the income.  This field is really only useful for balancing at the end of the month, but if you’ve done your budgetting properly, the amount should be small and easy to take care of.

The meat of the expenses spreadsheet is everything else.  Column A holds the categories.  I’ve broken them down into header categories and sub categories.  For instance, the Health header category has sub categories for Health Insurance, Aflac, Prescriptions, and Medical Bills.  I could go even further and list each bill, but that would greatly increase the amount of time I spend on my budget.  I want it to do it’s job (keep my money in order), not take up hours of my time.  Column B holds the budgeted amount for that sub category.  Pretty simple really.  Column C is the amount that I’ve spent to date on that category.  Column D is the % the budgeted amount is of the income/budget and Column E is the % that the actual spent amount is of the income/budget.    I’ve also thrown in some totals for each header category as well as the % of total for those as well.

Each week, we go over our checkbooks, credit cards, and all other financial happenings and enter them in the appropriate places.  By doing it every week, it keeps the task down to a half-hour or less which helps with reducing the stress level of working with your finances.  Especially if they are a little wonky to begin with.

Budget deficit and surplus.  Occasionally, we get to the end of the month and we have a surplus or deficit.  We’ve either spent less than we budgeted for or we have spent more than we budgeted for.  The latter is a little rough, but the first is always fun.  Because we don’t usually figure out the overall surplus/deficit until the month has ended, we can’t budget for the surplus/deficit in that month.  So, I’ve thrown in a field on the Income sheet that is titled “Carryover” and one in the expenses sheet that is titled “Shortfall”.  If we have a deficit, the carryover value is 0 and the shortfall amount is the amount of the deficit.  And vice versa.  This helps with taking the surplus and budgeting it as an extra debt payment or in accounting for previous months deficits.

Most of these ideas are pretty basic budgeting principles.  We’ve tweaked them around a little to fit our financial style and to be loosely based on the Dave Ramsey system.  If you’ve got questions on budgeting that we might be able to answer, drop us a line and we’ll try and answer them as soon as we can.

Popularity: 52% [?]

Today, I requested and received the addition of this blog to the PFBlogs.org blogroll.  PfBlogs.org is the premier personal finance blog aggregator.  I am very proud to have Beating Broke as a member of the blogroll and look forward to many years of contribution and interation with the personal finance community.

If you haven’t, you should check out pfblogs.org.  It’s an excellent source to find even more news and many points of view on personal finance.  I guarantee you’ll find something to read while there.  If you’d like to see Beating Broke on the site, you can visit the page for this blog.

Popularity: 20% [?]

Home or Investment?Your primary home is not an investment in the normal sense of the word.  Dictionary.com defines Investment thusly*: “the investing of money or capital in order to gain profitable returns, as interest, income, or appreciation in value.”  Some of you will argue that you buy your house because it will appreciate in value.  But, to fit the definition, you must have bought it specifically for that purpose.  And in the case of a primary residence, that isn’t true.

When you bought (or buy) your primary residence, you’re looking for a home.  You’re looking for a place to call your own where the money that you spend on it goes towards your ownership of the home.  Sure, it may show some returns by way of appreciation of value, but those are locked into the house until you sell.  And, truthfully, you probably don’t care about that unless you sell, so if you plan on living in the house (the definition of primary residence) it makes little difference what the house is worth as long as it provides a home for your family.

So, don’t be fooled into looking for a good “investment” when you buy a house.  Look for an affordable home that will provide for your shelter needs.  When (if) you sell the house, it gets converted into an investment and you will have hopefully made some money, but when you’re looking for a home, pick the one that will fit your needs. Not the one that shows the most potential for return.  That’s what second homes and rental properties are for.

*I know that thusly isn’t really a word.  I blame it all on Alton Brown.

Photo Credit: svilen001 @ sxc.hu

Popularity: 21% [?]

If you really want to over simplify things, you can choose a online savings account by no other requirements than the interest rate that the account is paying out.  If that’s all you care about, then the current high yield king is WaMu with 3.75% (current as of 8/5/08).  The rest fall behind, but most all of them stick in the 3-4% range with only a few outliers in each direction.

So, unless you really, really want to chase rates, you’ll want to pick a savings account with some other things in mind.  Each person is going to have different things that they like and require, so I’ll share how I selected my accounts first.

When I was looking for a high-yield savings, I was looking for something to hold our emergency savings.  A lump of money that wouldn’t get touched for quite some time (hopefully). Because the money was just going to sit around interest rate was one of the most important factors.  At the time, I had narrowed it down to three accounts.  ING Direct, HSBC, and e-Tradee-Trade was paying 4%, HSBC was at 3.75% and ING Direct was at 3.3%.  They were all pretty close.  I decided that the interest difference was fairly minimal.  I chose ING Direct.  The deciding factor was the $25 bonus I got for opening an account with more than $250.  Even at 4%, that was well over a years worth of interest up front.

I’ve since moved our account over to e-Trade for the higher interest rate.  I still hold our account at ING Direct (several actually including a Orange Checking) for other household savings accounts such as a home improvement fund.  It really is just a matter of accounting now, so I could easily move the money from one to another.

When you go to choose your account, be sure to take into effect some of these factors.

  • You’ll want to make sure that the account will let you transfer to another savings account.  ING Direct doesn’t.  I get around that by pulling the money from my e-Trade account.
  • Is there any risk involved to the bank?  With a few banks being shut down, this is more of a factor than it should be.  Remember to make sure that wherever you put your money, it’s FDIC or NCUA insured.  As long as that is in place, you won’t lose your money up to $100,000.  And don’t be afraid to double check insurance claims with third parties.
  • Do you need a Debit Card?  Many of the accounts don’t give you a debit card.  ING direct does, and that was another important factor in my choice.
  • Are there any bonuses involved?  As far as I know, ING Direct is the only one that currently has a bonus program.  All you need is a referral code and you’ll get $25 with a new account of over $250.  (If you need a referral, let me know and I can get you one.)
  • Do they require other accounts?  Will they make you open other accounts to hold the savings account?  WaMu, for instance, requires a online checking account in order to have an online savings account.  Not a huge deal, but can be a bit of a nuisance.

I’m sure that there are other factors to take into effect when you select your account, but those are the big ones.  With interest rates as competitive as they are in this niche of accounts, you’ll be hard pressed to make your selection on interest rate alone.  And keep in mind that just having a high yield account puts you well on your way to debt freedom and financial independence!

Popularity: 50% [?]

One thing that you see plenty of people pushing is the information products that tell you how you can get all this money from the government for free.  Free!  Did you hear that?  Free!  (I couldn’t help myself.)

Between Kevin Trudeau and his Debt Cures and Mathew Lesko and his question mark-y free money omnibus, consumers are inundated with sales pitches to try and sell people on information that is already free.  Arguably, they do collect the information and put it in a little bit easier to use format (at least Lesko does) but it is free nonetheless.

I don’t really believe in regurgitating information.  I figure if you want something bad enough, you should be hesitating to do a little research to find out how to go about doing it.  So, without further ado, here’s the government website where you can search until you’re blue in the face for free money from the government.  It’s Free!

Visit Grants.gov for all the information on government grants that you could ever want.  It’s a little hard to wade through, but if you end up with a grant, it will be well worth the work.  Also, if you are ever looking for more information about other government programs other than the grants programs, make sure and give the new usa.gov site a try.  It serves as a one stop index of all the government websites.  There are way more than you would expect so be ready to do some more wading.

Popularity: 63% [?]

WaMu (formerly Washington Mutual) has announced that their interest rate on their Online Savings has been changed from 3.30% to 3.75%.  This is the second announced interest rate for a online savings in the last several weeks, so it is hopefully the beginning of a new trend.

Currently, I believe, the only way to use the WaMu online savings is in conjuction with one of their free online checking accounts.  I haven’t personally used either account, so I can’t vouch for ease of use or quality of service, but the 3.75% rate certainly puts them near the top of the list of high-yield interest accounts.

Popularity: 38% [?]

If you own a home, you know that you quickly accumulate lots and lots of stuff.  If you were to ever have a fire or a flood, it could be hard to prove to the insurance company what you had and in what condition.  In fact, if you have a fire and can’t prove you had it, they might just not pay you for it.  One of the best ways to prevent such a disaster is to complete a home inventory.

Ideally, a home inventory will include an itemized list of your possessions that will include serial numbers, model numbers, and replacement value.  It should also include pictures of the items at the least and a video of the items if at all possible.  A home inventory is something that every homeowner should have.

The more industrious of us can easily put together something with a spreadsheet and some archived pictures and videos.  The less technologically inclined might need a little help.  And a little free help is always good!

The Insurance Information Institute has a program designed for just such a solution.  The Know Your Stuff Home Inventory Software is a free download.  It includes a quick wizard for creating your room-by-room inventory and then gives the ability to attach photos to each item.  It also allows for attaching a digital copy of your receipt to the item for quick and easy value proof.

Once you’ve added all your possessions, you have several options for saving and archiving your inventory.  The simplest being a quick save to your harddrive or a print out that gets placed in a safe deposit box or safe.  They also allow for the ability to save the inventory to a 3rd party archiving system, but that carries a fee as well.  If you already have a offsite backup system in place (you should if you have anything important like a budget on your computer), like Mozy, then you can simply save the file to your hard drive and then have your current system back up the file.  Easy as pie!

Don’t forget to take your completed inventory into your Home Owners insurance agent to discuss your coverage and make sure that you have enough insurance to cover your possessions!

Popularity: 33% [?]

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